SUNRIDGE LANDSCAPING GUIDELINES

If you are an experienced gardener, you probably know quite a bit about the design and maintenance of an urban garden. Even so, Sunridge’s poor soils and hot, dry southern exposure may be challenging. The following guidelines can help you design a landscape that complies with Sunridge’s CC&Rs and that will be successful on this difficult site without chemicals, excessive maintenance or irrigation. ARC approval of landscaping is not required.

MATURE PLANT HEIGHTS: Except for Protected Trees, plants with mature heights of over six feet may not be planted or maintained on the lot or in the adjacent right-of-way. However, after your house has been framed, the ARC will look for areas where taller plants can be allowed, because the house or a Protected Tree is already blocking the view. Shortly after your house is framed, the ARC will provide you with a map that shows the areas where taller plants will be allowed. Exceptions may also be made for traditionally pruned plants, such as hedges, with the condition that regular pruning will be done, to maintain the plants under six feet. “Topping” of trees or other plants that are not traditionally pruned is NOT allowed. All such exceptions will be subsequently recorded in the Lane County Real Property Records.

PROTECTED TREES: Protected Trees may grow to any height. Grade changes, heavy mulch and irrigation are not allowed under Protected Trees. Make sure your landscaping plans are compatible with the needs of these trees.

REQUESTING A TREE: Some lots do not have any Protected Trees. On such lots, Shade Tree will try to grant a variance to the height restriction, to allow an existing or planted tree to grow to maturity on your lot. We do not, however, guarantee that every lot will be able to have a Protected Tree. The effect of such trees on views is the main criteria for deciding whether or not to grant a variance. Trees must be native: ponderosa pine, Oregon white oak or incense cedar. In wetter areas, big leaf maple may be approved. Douglas fir is not allowed, due to its shallow root system. In determining which trees are retained or approved, Oregon white oak has the highest priority, then ponderosa pine, then incense cedar. Any trees that are approved will become a Protected Tree.

RECOMMENDED PLANTS: The Sunridge Plant List contains descriptions (with color photos) of over 150 recommended plants, specially selected by a professional landscaper for this site. While use of the recommended plants is encouraged, this is not mandatory.

INVASIVE PLANTS: The Native Plant Society of Oregon has identified common, non-native plants that readily escape into natural areas. Blackberry, English ivy, scotch broom, holly and English laurel are well-known examples. These plants are not allowed in Sunridge; see the Sunridge Plant List for a complete list.

PESTICIDE USE: The Sunridge CC&R’s do not allow use of synthetic pesticides (including herbicides), except for glyphosate, commonly known as Roundup. Your landscaping should be designed to allow easy maintenance without the use of chemicals.

RETAINING WALLS: Retaining walls must be dry-set basalt stone. Concrete or block walls are not allowed. Consistent use of stone is intended to unify the neighborhood and anchor the built environment to the natural world. Native weathered stone is readily available on many of the lots. These stones can be separated from the dirt and stockpiled during excavation.

LANDSCAPING FOR CUT AND FILL SLOPES: The ARC will require most cuts and fills to be covered by rock retaining walls. In some cases, dense plantings of erosion-resistant plants will suffice.

NATIVE VEGETATION: Consider using plants native to this area. Native plants have a proven ability to survive on this difficult site. The Sunridge Plant List contains a variety of beautiful native plants. For any given landscaping problem, there is often a solution using native plants that is equal or better than that offered by the more commonly used non-native plants.

“NATURAL” AREAS: Due to decades of grazing, 95% of the low-growing plants on site are non-native grasses, forbs and noxious weeds. These plants can and should be eliminated, and replaced with suitable landscaping. Simply leaving the area as is it is unacceptable. Although rehabilitation of native grass and flower species is encouraged, this does not mean that no landscaping is needed in so-called “natural” areas. Weeds still need to be removed, and lots must look well cared for at all times. Additional plants may need to be added to create aesthetic appeal. Landscaping needs to be deliberate, and not just a “default” to whatever plants happen to grow on their own.

BARK-O-MULCH: Landscaping with prominent areas of bark-o-mulch is not acceptable. Landscaping should be planned so that eventually, the majority of the yard will be vegetated. While bark-o-mulch may be used as temporary cover while young plants grow to fill in the gaps, it cannot be relied upon to control weeds for very long. Most bark-o-mulch landscaping depends on the annual use of pre-emergent herbicides to keep weed seeds from sprouting. Landscaping fabric must be used under bark-o-mulch areas to control weeds without the use of prohibited chemicals.

MAINTENANCE: Consider how much time you really want to spend maintaining your yard. While all landscapes require some ongoing maintenance, you can make choices now that will greatly minimize the work you will have to do later on to keep your yard looking good. High-quality landscaping that will retain its aesthetic appeal as the plants mature is a sound investment that will pay off over time.

IRRIGATION: A carefully designed landscape may need little or no watering. The Sunridge Plant List features many drought-resistant plants. For plants that do need watering, consider drip irrigation, which uses water much more efficiently than overhead sprinklers, and discourages weed growth in un-irrigated areas.

CONTAINERS: Consider using plants in containers for versatility and color on decks and patios.

COOPERATION: Consider working with your neighbor on landscaping elements, such as shared paths or groupings of plants along the property line.

ERADICATE STUBBORN PERENNIALS: Before planting your landscaping, it is important to first kill the existing vegetation. Otherwise, the non-native perennial grasses and weeds now on site may be very difficult to control without prohibited chemicals. An easy way is to cover the area with black plastic for one to two months. Another alternative is to use weed-blocking landscape fabric.

SOIL AMENDMENTS: Sunridge’s soils are clayey and poorly drained. Resist the temptation to add sand. Adding sand to clay soil will not make it drain better, but will result in an adobe-like soil that resembles concrete when dry. Instead, try adding organic matter. Spread 2 to 4 inches of compost or well-rotted manure, and work it into the soil after you kill the vegetation.

CORRECT MINERAL DEFICIENCIES: A one time addition of the following organic fertilizers will correct the existing deficiencies in the local soils. All amounts are per 1000 square feet of ground, and should be mixed in 6-8 inches deep:
100# soft rock phosphate (Down to Earth)
50# dolmitic lime (Jerry’s, Coastal Farm, Down to Earth)
50# calcitic lime (Jerry’s, Coastal Farm, Down to Earth)
1# elemental sulfur (Jerry’s, Coastal Farm, Down to Earth)
1/2# borax (any supermarket)

ANNUAL FERTILIZATION: Once the existing soil deficiencies are corrected, an annual application of good compost may be all that’s needed to keep your soil in good condition.
Or, if you are not removing organic material from your yard, you can probably forgo the compost and use a product like Down to Earth’s “complete organic fertilizer”.

LANDSCAPING TIMELINES: Occupancy starts the timeline. Within one (1) year the front yard (sidewalk to front wall of the house most distant from the street) must be completed. By the end of the second (2) year the rest of the landscaping must be completed.